R/C Helicopters
A step by step process from pre-purchase to flying

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Find out more about this hobby This is a great hobby! I have found that in going to fun flys, emails from others from all around the world, and of course the others at the local field that this hobby is made of really good people to have as friends. Don't be afraid to ask any questions. All experienced pilots started the hobby also with many questions and will be glad to help you.
  A common question and comment is: I heard that helicopters are hard to fly, do I need to start with airplanes first?
I started with a helicopter first and so have many others, so no you do not need to start with a plane. Really the key to learning helicopters is to have someone get it setup first. This is the part that causes some to give up
before they even get started good. It's hard enough when you are starting out trying to learn to hover, but if you have an engine not running right and you also need to trim the helicopter then it is sometimes too much for
some. That's why it's very important to get someone to get the heli running good first.
  Don't expect to just pick up the radio and instantly do everything Curtis Youngblood(multi-time world champ) can do. When you see these heli's flown by a good pilot they look easy to fly however they are not exactly that easy... if they were you would get bored with the hobby quickly. They offer a good challenge. The hardest thing to learn on a helicopter is how to hover... and unfortunately you have to learn that first. Just keeping a helicopter in a steady hover may require around a dozen flights. Some people learn quick and some take a little longer. Having a simulator to practice with helps a ton. I have seen some new pilots that after a lot of simulator practice could hover on their first tank of fuel.
Find a pilot in your area Find out if there are any r/c helicopter pilots in your area. If you have a local hobby shop then ask about any local heli pilots. Also use this website to locate a pilot near you: Pilot Locator.
If there is, it will greatly benefit you to get in contact with them. Find out where they fly at and what time. Go spend some time with them at the field. Observe and ask questions. If any of them have a simulator ask if you could arrange a time to practice on it. This will give you a hands-on feel of what it's like to fly these helicopters.
If you don't have anyone local at least try to find someone within a couple hours driving distance. After you have built the helicopter it would be worth your time to get an experienced pilot to check over your setup and make the first flight. If you don't have anyone around then don't worry you can learn on your own, it just makes things easier when you have an experienced pilot with you.
AMA If you live in the U.S. then most flying fields require that you be an AMA member. Also any fun fly events you attend will require you have a current year AMA card before you can fly. AMA provides insurance coverage and helps the hobby out in several ways. One of which is to talk with the FCC when needed to maintain our frequencies. To find out more about AMA, go to http://www.modelaircraft.org
What to buy This topic involves many decisions. One of the main ones being the amount of money you have to spend on the hobby. If you think you can work it into your budget then get a simulator. This will not only help you at the beginning stages, but will also help you during each stage of development. Simulators run from $150 to $200. Some like CSM require you have a radio to use with it, others like RFD have a version that comes with a fake radio to fly with on the sim.
***Don't let the amount of items listed below overwhelm you. There is a lot listed because I wanted to provide as much info as I can to help you get everything so you can learn to fly instead of waiting for something you forgot to get.
  There's more to a helicopter then just the kit! In addition to whatever helicopter kit you buy, you will need to select and purchase the engine, muffler, radio, and gyro that you want to use with the helicopter. Also you will need fuel, fuel pump, fuel cutoff clip, starter, starter shaft, glow plug driver, glow plug, battery checker. Additionally during contruction you will need things like foam tape, blue and red loctite, zip ties, oil, and a training gear.
  So what helicopter/radio/engine should you get? The best thing is to find out what others in your area use. The reason is that when you need help from the local pilots, they will be familar with what you have and can more easily correct the problem you have.
helicopter Helicopters come in different sizes. The two main categories are 30's and 60's. There are also 46/50's and 90's and even some that work off a gasoline engine. For someone just starting out I really recommend selecting a 30 size helicopter. Yes, the larger helicopters do fly better, but there are some disadvantages. They are more particular about getting everything balanced and aligned. And in the event you did happen to crash it would cost a lot more to repair then a 30 size. The 60 size has a high cost both initially and afterwards. A 60 engine cost more as well as the muffler to. Also you need to run stronger servos. And the ongoing cost of fuel will be more. And replacement parts are higher. For these reasons and more I recommend a 30 size helicopter.

For everything from learning to hover to advancing your skills with 3D, I think the Raptor 30 is a good choice. Most every flying field has at least one pilot with one so it should be easy to get help when you need it. Also since this is the most popular 30 size helicopter most shops have parts for it. The Raptor 30 is available in both a kit and an ARF version. ARF stands for Almost Ready to Fly. The mechanics are put together for you and an engine is already installed and fuel tubing ran. All you have to do to complete it is install the radio and gyro. I like the idea of getting the kit because you will see how the helicopter works and is put together. You will be better at maintaning the mechanics and knowing how to fix it in the event of a crash.
engine If you go with the Raptor ARF version it comes with a TT 36. This is a powerful engine but it does have some quality issues. Some people get a good one and really like it while others don't and end up fighting the engine instead of learning to fly. I have had two TT 36's and one still runs great, but the other had a piston/liner that was too tight. These are the original versions and since then they have changed some things to make them better. I still hear some complain about these engines, but you have to figure out the difference between someone that knows what they're doing and someone that doesn't. Any helicopter will fly like a dog if not setup right, well the same goes with engines. While I think this engine is ok (in the right hands) I will have to recommend the OS 32 if you are a new pilot. Overall everyone that has one of these seems to be pleased with its easy adjustments and reliability. Another less known brand that I have found to be a very good engine and has more power is the Leo 37.
Note: A glow plug is needed for the engine and not all engines come with one.
muffler The one I have had the best time with is the Weston Genesis 1 piece. I run 15% nitro and it runs great with this lower nitro. I have heard of problems with the 30% fuels. Note that the muffler has two versions, one for low nitro and the other for high nitro (30%). There are other good mufflers like the Century 3033. Stay away from tuned pipes if you are just starting out. They do give more power, but are very picky on engine settings.
radio It's important that you talk with the local pilots and find out what they recommend. When you go to get help, you will find a lot of pilots have difficulty helping others with different brand radios. Why, I don't know, one computer radio is just as easy as another for me to figure out, but thing again computers are easy primitive devices to me. You will find that most people are split into two groups, JR and Futaba. Another brand that is not as popular but I like a lot is Airtronics. The main radios you will see are: JR 8103 (this is a very good radio) and the Futaba 8UHFS/8UHPS (very good, but programming is less intuitive). Both of these radios are in the mid price category, another one just recently added to the market (Winter 2001) that I like a lot is the Futaba 9C, they fixed their non-intuitive software and actually made it even easier then the JR 8103 to program and it has more capability. In the high dollar category are the JR 10X (top of the JR line, kewel touch screen) and the Futaba 9Z (more capability then JR but non-intuitive programming). In the lower price range are the Airtronics RD6000 or RD6000 Super (best value for the money, lots of the features of the mid-priced radios, I recommend this one), the RD6000 Sport (don't get this version), the Futaba 6XH (probably the worst radio made), and the JR 652 (don't waste your money). The common recomendation on radio choice is to get the best you can afford because the radio will be with you for a long time. If you buy something like the Futaba 6X series then after you get past forward flight you will have outgrown the radio and already need to spend more money on a better radio. So as you can see the cheaper radio cost more. So what do I recommend... if you can afford it, get the Futaba 9C otherwise get the RD6000 Super.

PCM and FM
PCM stands for Pulse Code Modulation. FM stands for Frequency Modulation. Actually the correct terminology for FM type radios is PPM (Phased Pulse Modulation). Both PCM and PPM use FM, just in different ways. You will see that some radios are available in both a PCM and FM(PPM) version. The PCM version will cost more. The transmitter in the radio system you buy is the same for both version. It can be switched in the menu system to PCM or PPM. What you are paying more for is the receiver. As to which one to get... there have been many discussions on the message boards and email list about which is better. Some argue that PCM hides any glitchs and you won't know about them until it's too late. The best thing to do is setup the fail safes correctly as descibed on Ron Lunds website. As to which type to get, PCM or FM(PPM), I'll let you decide. What do I have? I have only PPM receivers. Why, simple answer is money, the PCM receiver cost over twice what I paid for the PPM version. The PPM receivers I have do great for me. From my experience I have found the two deciding advantages between the two systems. 1)PPM is better if you have outside interference. 2)PCM is better if you have internal interference. So if you have someone turn on their radio that is on the same channel you are on then you will have the best chance of recovery with a PPM receiver. If the radio interference is local as in some metal or carbon vibrating against another piece of metal or carbon that is on the helicopter then PCM will be best. This local interference also includes sources like spark plugs on gasoline power helicopters as well as servos such as the JR 8700G (interfering with 72Mhz systems).

Channel
When you get a radio it will be tuned to a specific channel. In the U.S.A. we can select between channels 11 through 60. These channel numbers actually correspond with a frequency in the 72Mhz range. 11 is 72.010Mhz and 60 is 72.990Mhz. Check with the other pilots at your local field and find out what channels they have. Try to get a channel no one else is on. Also BEFORE you turn on a transmitter make sure no one else is on that channel. Do this EVERYTIME you get ready to turn on your transmitter. If you are flying at a club of a fun fly then they will usually use a pin board. You must get the pin for your channel before you turn on your transmitter.
radios - servos When you buy a radio, it comes with a receiver, on/off switch, overnight charger, battery, and servos. For a 30 size helicopter you don't have to have super strong servos but what you are looking for is good quality. My favorite servos are the Futaba 9202's, but at $50 each they add up quick. However as part of the radio combo they can figure in at a more reasonable amount. With a 30 size heli, the Futaba combos with the 3001 servos are ok, just as the 531's with the JR radios are ok, and the 322's with the Airtronics radio are good.
radios - batteries A lot of radios come with a 1000mah or 1100mah battery pack. This is ok, but will only get you about 4 flights before you need to recharge it (note: you need to use a battery tester or monitor to check on your batteries after each flight). A 1400mah or 1800mah are nice.
Gyro Well, I really believe you should get the Futaba GY401 with the 9253 servo as a combo deal from CyberHeli or HeliHut for $200 (note if you live in the USA then beware that you may not have a warrenty, check with the dealer you order the gyro from). This gyro/servo are the best! Dig the loose coins from the couch, eat peanut butter sandwiches for a few weeks, whatever you can do to get the money for this combo, it's that good :) They are superb for 3D flying, but also help the beginner by holding the tail so good that it frees up your mind to concentrate on the other controls. There is no drifting (unless you can't adjust your engine and it's running bad, no gyro likes a bad running engine), super easy setup, and hassle free. If there is no way for you to afford this gyro then other gyros will work, but they just won't be the same as the 401/9253.
Fuel I use PowerMaster 15% nitro, 20% all synthetic oil. Another popular brand is Cool Power. Fuels are rated by their nitro content. 15% and 30% are common in the USA while other countries run lower nitro amounts (0%, 5%, or 10%) because it's not as easy to get. The more nitro, the more power you can get. If you're just starting out then buy the 15%. The other rating on the fuel is the oil content, 17% or more is good. Also there is a selection of the type of oil, synthetic, castor, or half synethic/half castor. I personally stick with all synthetic.
Fuel pump The one I have that currently (12-1-2001) has pumped over 100 gallons is a MKD664 made by Kato Model Aircraft Co. Other pumps will do, I like this one because it is battery operated which means I don't have to carry a 12V battey around to power it. I have some more info on this one <here>.
Fuel cutoff clip This is slipped on the fuel line going into the carburetor of the engine. When you're not flying you should keep the line clamped off to keep the fuel from draining into the carb and flooding the engine. I use the KSJ KSJ221
clamps. They come in a pack for about $3.
Starter You don't need a super high power starter for a 90 size engine then something cheap will work. Here is one from Tower Hobbies that's only $20 <here>. You will need a 12V battery. You can hook it up to the battery in your car/truck or buy a gel cell battery. Another option is to do <this>. This two r/c car battery pack mount is what I use. The only downside to it is you will need to by a charger that can charge these packs.
Starter shaft The starter shaft extends from the starter and is placed in the start coupler on the helicopter. When you spin the starter that turns over the engine. There are two type of starter shafts. The TT 3801 fits in the rubber cup on the starter. It sells for about $10. This type is good if you also fly planes and need the starter for both. I use the JR JRP960090 start shaft. To use this you take off the cup on the starter and bolt this start shaft directly to the shaft of the starter motor. I like this one because you don't have to mess with the shaft trying to coming out of the rubber cup like on the other style.
Glow plug driver The Hot-Shot2 is a good one to use. The standard version is $15, the charger comes with it.
Glow plug The OS #8 is my favorite, it's durable and long lasting. I commonly get 100's of flights from one glow plug. Note: If you run the engine too lean too long no glow plug will survive. Glow plugs come in different temperature ratings. I have found the OS #8 or Enya #3 work good. The plugs cost about $5 each. Always keep at least one backup.
Battery checker It's very important that you check your battery after each flight. The voltage will be at its lowest at the end of a flight. Use a voltmeter like this <Hobbico> one to make sure you are still in the 'green' so you will know if you can make another flight or need to charge. It sells for about $15. Another option is to buy an onboard battery monitor like the Gem2000 or the BC6. I have one of each. The Gem2000 is very visible even while in the air and simple to use. At the end of the flight before you shut off the helicopter, move the sticks and what the LED, if it stops flashing and goes solid then you need to charge before you fly again. And of course if you notice it stop flashing while flying then land quick! The Gem2000 cost about $25. The BC6 cost a little more, about $55, but it's not only a battery monitor but also a tool to help find RF problems. It has a row of LEDs that display the lowest voltage that occured during the flight and if the LED's are blinking simple count the number of blinks and that will tell you how many glitchs the receiver got.
Charger The radio you buy will come with an overnight charger for the radio and receiver batteries. But if you're like me and want to fly many times during the day, then you will want a quick charger. My favorite is the SuperNova, but at $125 it's not cheap. I do recommend if possible to get this charger, but if you just can't afford it, then the one I use to use is the Hobbico #HCAM3000 Quick Field Charger. It works great and can charge the transmitter and receiver batteries at the same time. The cost is $50. Another one that is even less costly is the Hobbico #HCAM3005 QuickPeak charger for $30.
Training gear I made one out of a couple of wooden dowel rods and wiffle balls, you can see these on my Learning to Hover page. I've got $3 invested in mine, but if you got the money, a nice alternative is the Roto-Pod
Additional items Get some oil to put on the main shaft and tail shaft once a week. I like Tri-Flow, you can get it in the bicycle department of WalMart for $2.50. Also you will need to get both blue (242) Loctite and red (271) Loctite, a package of small zip ties, silicon grease aka dielectric grease aka tune-up grease from an automotive store, and some Manco Automotive Weatherstrip, I also got some of this foam tape in the brand Super-stik. This is 3/4 inch wide 5/16 inch thick self-adhesive vinyl foam that I use to protect the receiver/battery from vibration.
Got all the equipment Now that you have everything it's time to put it together. The instruction manual for the Raptor basically just shows you a picture and you're supposed to make yours look like theirs. A good instruction book would have detailed text explaining each step. Since it did not seem like TT was going to do it, I did. You can read my assembly manuals for the R30/50 v1 and v2 <Assembly Manuals>. Also check out my Radio Setup page and the Gyro How-to page. Also it would be good for you to read New Pilot Mistakes and the Checklist. This will give you some insight into the things you need to avoid during your building process. If you get to a stage you need some help on and you didn't see the answer in the previous pages, then look at my FAQ page. And if you don't see the answer there, just email me, I'll do my best to help you out :)
Flying Before you try to fly, get an experienced pilot to go over your helicopter and radio settings, make the first flight, get the engine tuned, gyro gain adjusted, and the controls trimmed. Check with your local hobby shop or Pilot Locator to find someone that can help you. If you don't have anyone within a reasonable distance I have made a page on Beginner Engine Tuning. Also read Unflood the Engine How-to, a flooded engine is something that happens a lot for a variety of reasons. Such as leaving the fuel line unclipped with a full tank of fuel. You can get some engine troubleshooting tips <here>.
And one more thing, I recommend using the pinch method for holding the transmitter. Read <this> page.
And last but not least, read this page: Learning to Hover. And as you advance more you can try the stuff on this page: Learning Tricks
Safety Make sure you have a good grip on one of the main blade grips anytime you are cranking the engine. One of these days you are going to accidently have the radio in flight mode 1 or have the throttle stick too high. When you do you will be glad you were holding on to the rotor grip!

Range check - On a new radio I will usually do a range check before the first flight of each day. I do this for at least a few days. To do a range check walk a hundred feet away from the helicopter and collapse the antenna. Move each of the sticks and make sure the helicopter responds. If possible have someone stand by the helicopter and watch the controls. Make sure they are moving smoothly and not jumping around.
Things to know Before turning on the transmitter make sure no one else is on your channel.
When turning on your transmitter/receiver, always make the transmitter the first on and last off. So turn on the transmitter then turn on the receiver. When you are done flying turn off the receiver then turn off the transmitter.

When programming the radio for long periods make sure the antenna is at least partially pulled out. When the radio is transmitting with the antenna colapsed it can overheat the output circuit in the radio.