 |
Mount the Gyro on the back plate behind the
main shaft. Yes, the tape that comes with the gyro is not
very cushiony, but that's the way it needs to be. The
cushioning is done inside the gyro. The tape works great,
use it. As you can see in the picture to the left, I
mounted it with the cords coming out toward the back of
the helicopter. |
 |
Make the connections just as shown in the
manual (picture to the left comes from the manual). This
is very simple, nothing special here, just connect the
rudder servo to the female connector. That leaves two
other connectors, one with 3 wires and the other with 1
wire. Connect the one with 3 to the rudder channel 4 on
the receiver. Then plug the 1 wire connector into channel
5 - make sure the yellow wire is on the signal side. The
signal side will be opposite of the black (ground) side. |
| |
Before we continue it helps to understand the
characteristics of this gyro. You have to start up this
gyro in heading hold mode. Also as with all heading hold
gyros you have to wait for the gyro to initialize after
power up before you can move the helicopter. This gyro
initializes fast, only about 3 or 4 seconds. Also when
using a digital servo like the Futaba 9253/9254 you need
to flip the tiny switch on top of the gyro to "on",
the swith is labeled "DS". |
| Common misconception of all heading hold
gyros |
Another thing that a lot of people don't
understand is that the rudder travel adjust (ATV's / EPA's)
does not adjust how far the servo moves. You cannot use
this to prevent linkage binding. This adjustment only
effects how fast the tail moves (your pirouette rate). |
| radio setup |
For this setup we will make switch 'B' to
control the gyro mode. To do this you need to get in the
menu system by holding the 'Mode' button down for one
second. This gets you in the basic menu then press 'Mode'
once to get to the advanced menu. Use the jog wheel to
get to the 'GYRO' function. Use the down button (by the
jog wheel) to get to the second page of gyro options. At
the very top set 'GYRO' to 'ON'. Next set 'SW' to 'B' and
set the 'MODE' to 'GY'.
Use the up button to get back to the first page and set 'UP'
to 'A90'. Set 'DN' to 'N90'. |
| zero out anything that would effect the
rudder |
In the advanced menu go to 'REVO' and set to
'INH'. |
| zero center position |
Go to the 'SUB-TRIM' menu and set 'CH:4 RUD'
and 'CH:5 GER' to 0.
Also make sure the trims are centered. |
| set pirouette speed |
Go to the 'E. POINT' menu and set 'CH:4'.
Hold the rudder stick to the left and set the value to 70%,
hold the rudder stick to the right and set it to 80%.
This will set how fast the helicopter rotates. You may
want it faster or slower so change the value appropiately.
Note that the left and right values are different. The
helicopter will naturally spin faster to the left due to
the direction of torque so to get the rotation rates
close to the same you will need to set the right side
higher. |
| |
First make sure the 'B' switch (the front
switch on the top/left) is flipped up. Next disconnect
the rudder link from the servo. Turn on the receiver.
Wait 4 seconds for the gyro to initialize. It may or may
not initialize correctly depending on where the gyro
channel reverse setting is set in the radio. Remember the
gyro has to start up in HH (Heading Hold) mode. Continue
with the next step to determine if it's in the right mode. |
| set to start up in HH |
Move the rudder stick to the right, then back
to center, if the rudder servo does the same then you are
in normal mode which is wrong. If the servo moves to one
direction but does not move back to center then you are
in heading hold mode which is right. If you ended up in
normal mode then flip swithc 'B'. Then turn off the
receiver and then back on and let the gyro initialize in
heading hold mode. |
| set to normal mode |
Now that you have the gyro initialized
correctly, flip the 'B' switch. This will make the gyro
go into standard rate mode. |
| servo direction |
Check the servo direction. Move the rudder
stick to the right and watch the servo arm. It should
move the servo clockwise which thereby should pull the
rudder control link forward. This will make the nose of
the helicopter rotate to the right. If not, then go to
the 'REVERSE' menu and change channel 4. |
| gyro direction |
Rotate the helicopter so the nose goes to the
left and watch the rudder servo. The servo needs to
rotate clockwise. If not, then flip the reverse switch
located on the top of the gyro. |
 |
With the rudder link disconnected from the
servo. The first thing to do is make the link slide as
free as possible. Adjust the guides to acheive the least
resistance. I added a slight bent to the front section of
the rod as you can see if you click on the photo to the
left. I did this so as to stop the resistance the rod had
on the first frame guide due to being pulled down to the
servo. I also use a JR Ball link resizing tool to remove
unecessary resistance from the ball links. Once you get
the link as free from resistance as you can. You need to
take off the rudder servo arm and install/move the ball
to a position that is about 13mm from the center. The
instructions with the gyro say to use the recommended
distance that the helicopter instructions say to use. I
used the 13mm position and found it to work great. A
friend tried a much longer distance and it did not work
as well. Next set the rudder servo arm back on the servo
so that it points up with the rudder stick and rudder
trim centered. The best position for tail centering is to
adjust the rudder link so that you have 4.5mm between the
pitch slider and the tail rotor casing (see the picture
to the left). Another way to find center other then
measuring 4.5mm is to visually align the control arm to
be parallel with the tail shaft. Check that the front
link is centered with the ball on the servo arm. If it's
not, turn the link clockwise to move it toward the back
or counter clockwise to move it forward. Once the center
of the ball link matches with the center of the ball and
you have the 4.5mm at the tail slider, then you can move
to the next step. |
| |
First make sure the 'Limit' on the top of the
gyro to it's max (140), while you're adjusting that go
ahead and make sure the 'Delay' is set to 0 if you are
using the 9253/9254 servo, otherwise start around 30 and
later experiment to find the best value for the servo you
use.
Hold the tail rotor stick full right and pull the control
rod all the way forward. Pull the link as far forward as
it can go then adjust the 'Limit' control on the top of
the gyro so that the ball on the servo arm centers with
the link. Once you are finished you can snap the link on
the ball. |
| Set back to HH |
Now that you're done with that, you need to
flip the 'B' switch back to heading hold mode. |
| Notes about the gyro HH/Standard Rate |
With the GY401 there is very little reason to
use standard rate mode. I leave mine in HH all the time.
On other gyros I would prefer to have Normal flight mode
use standard rate because the HH mode would have a kinda
jerky non-fluid motion when doing ground maneuvers such
as slow piroueting circles. With the GY401 I have found
it is smooth all the time in HH mode so I just leave it
there. |
| Flying adjustments |
To get the tail to move faster or slower,
adjust the rudder channel travel. Go to the 'E. POINT'
menu and set 'RUD' left and right. A higher value will
make the heli pirouette faster and a lower value will
make the tail slower.
Also if you are using a servo other then the 9253/9254
then you may need to adjust the Delay pot on top of the
gyro to stop the tail from wagging after a quick stop.
If you the tail wags in a hover then decrease the gain.
Go to the 'GYRO' menu and decrease the value of the up
rate if wagging in HH or down rate if wagging in standard
rate mode. |
| Symptom |
Cause |
| Gain values have to be set low to
stop any tail wagging. |
1. The helicopter is out of balance.
Vibration is the cause of low gain settings. Check the
blades, check for bent main shaft, spindle shaft, tail
shaft, out of balance tail blades, etc.
2. I found that a sticky clutch caused me to have to turn
down my gain by 20%. Check the engine/start shaft
alignment and look for a broke shoe.
3. The ball on the rudder servo is too far away from the
center. |
| HH doesn't hold good |
1. The RPM's should be 1850 to 1950 for 3D
flight. It's also important that your engine is running
good. If your engine loads up a lot then you won't be
able to keep a consistent RPM. Remember that a few
hundred rpm drop on the head is several hundred rpm drop
on the tail. |
| Tail wags only right after a pirouette, or
anytime I move the tail then stop. |
If you are using the 9253/9254 servo then you
probably have some resistance in your tail control rod.
Make sure the guides are aligned for least resistance.
Also keep your tail shaft oiled. If it is dry and tacky
this will cause the problem.
If using a servo other then the 9253/9254 then increase
the value of the delay (pot on top of the gyro). |