Raptor 30/50 v1 assembly manual
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Ok, two main things to note here. 1) get the thrust bearings in right. 2)lube the rubber head dampers. If not done, both can cause the blades to go out of track in flight.
Tip: Build the bearing assembly on the spindle shaft then use it to slide the whole thing in each blade grip. See the 2nd picture.
*Note: Now do not get confused, I have had two people email me thinking because I say to put the smaller thrust bearing race on first, they think this is opposite of what the instructions say to do. The smaller diameter thrust bearing race does go toward the blades just as the instructions say. When I discribe the assembly of this, I have you build the bearing stack on the spindle shaft then pull the whole thing into the blade grip. When assembling the bearing stack on the spindle shaft, the smaller race will go on first.

First build both main blade grips (23). Start by installing the nut (7) on the spindle shaft (24). Slide a bearing (11) on the spindle shaft. Next is the part a lot of people mess up on. Most of the time it is just because they assumed the two parts of the thrust bearing (12) were the same. The inside diameter is slightly different and you need to figure out which one is which. To do this, slide them both onto the spindle shaft (24) and rock them side to side. One will not move much and the other will. The one that rocks side to side the least is the one that needs to go on first (make sure you get the flat side toward the nut). Next slide on the caged ring of balls followed by the second thrust bearing race (larger hole) and make sure you have the grooved side facing the balls. Followed by the thrust collar (32). The thrust collar should have the small side facing the thrust bearing, just as shown in the 2nd picture. Next slide on the second bearing (11). Now that all the bearings are in the right order, poke the spindle shaft into one of the blade grips (23) and pull it through until the bearings are seated all the way. Use the two screws (6) to hold the bearings in place. Remove the spindle shaft and build another bearing assembly and install in the other blade grip.
To finish the blade grips, just install the ball (31) and screw (3), then snap on the double link (26). The double links should already be made up, but if not or you need to make new ones, set them to 30mm.
Next we will work with the head block (30). Usually the pins (28) are already install. Check to make sure they will not pull out easily. If they do, roughen the end that goes into the head block and put CA on it. Make sure you do not bend these pins, if they are not straight then the mixing base will not slide up/down smoothly. Install the rubber dampers (27) into the head block. As far as I know there are two types of dampers. One has a small stepped side and will face out (look at diagram A) and the other (which is newer) will have half of the damper stepped in (see the 4th picture), the larger side will face out. If using the type in A, make sure the outside corner of the dampers are flush with the outside of the head block. Now, this next step is important, many people don't do it. Lube the inside of the head dampers with 100% silicon grease. I use dielectric grease (aka tune up grease) that I get from the local auto parts store. Also lube the inside of the rotor hub pin (29) and install into the side of the head block and align the hole with the dampers. Slide the spindle shaft (24) through one of the blade grips, then a spacer (15), oval link (25), then through the head damper (27), then rotor pin (29), and out the other damper (27). Smear some more grease on the shaft beside each damper and slide the shaft back and forth to get good coverage. You should be able to turn the shaft easily with your hand. Next install the collar (15) on the other side of the shaft (24) followed by the oval links (25)*(see note below), then the blade grips (23). Install and tighten the nyloc nuts (7) on both ends of the shaft to hold the assembly together. Make sure you tighten both nuts tight, you will need two socket wrenchs.
To finish the head assembly, just bolt the flybar unit from the previous page onto the top of the head block. Align the center hole in the flybar hub with the holes in the top of the head block. Install the bearings (10) followed by the sleeve (14) and bolt (2). Use blue loctite on the bolts. Twist the flybar so that the flybar control arm (19 on the previous page) that is closest to you is on your right side. Check out the 3rd picture for a visual of how this should be. Notice the directions of not only the control arm, but the blade grips, flybar paddle, and oval links.
*Note: Test fit the oval links to find the side that goes on the ball first. If you don't get the links on right, you will have to take the blades grips off to turn them around. And if you try to put them on backwards, you risk breaking the link. Also remember the short side goes on top. As another note, I recently (5-5-2002) helped a guy installing these and found the new Raptor oval links he had were bi-directional. They could be installed either direction just like Rocket City links.

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