The first picture (on the right) still shows the
frames apart, but don't worry, you don't need to do that, it's
just pictured this way so you have a clear view of the start
shaft (13). The start shaft has a groove cut into one end. This
will be the bottom. Start by installing the e-clip (17) in the
groove then place the washer above the e-clip. This will go
between the e-clip and bearing on the inside of the clutch bell.
Now install the shaft up through the clutch bell (16) and up
through the top bearing. Notice that the top of the shaft has two
flat spots. In the second picture you can see the start coupler (14)
slides down on the shaft. With one hand, push up on the start
shaft from the bottom. Ok, remember the flat spots? You need to
rotate the start coupler so that the two holes in the side match
up with the two flat spots. Make sure the start coupler is all
the way down (you are still pushing up on the start shaft right?)
Put blue loctite on the two set screws (6) M4x5 and screw them
into the start coupler. Check for any up/down play in the start
shaft. As long as you were pushing up on the start shaft and down
on the coupler then you should not have any slop.Note: Later if you have to remove the start shaft you could run into a problem with the shaft getting stuck as the top part gets to the bearings. This is caused by the set screws pushing the metal outward around the flat spots. The bulged area is then too thick to go through the bearings. If this happens then you have two options. The technique I use on the v1 kits is to use a dremel with a grinding tip to remove the bulge. Don't just knock the shaft through the bearings, you will more then likely damage the bearings. The second technique which can only be done on v2 kits is to remove the bottom e-clip and washer then put the start shaft out of the top.
Ok, one last thing for this section... install the
fuel tank. Before you do this, take some sandpaper and smooth the
sharp edges of the frame where it will touch the fuel tank. In
the third picture look at the three red arrows. This is the
section that needs to be sanded. To insert the tank, just spread
the back of the frames a little and push the tank in. There are
some notches that it will lock into. BTW: Later when you need to
remove the tank to change out the clunk line, simply remove just
one of the rear landing skid screws. This will let you spread the
frame enough to pull the tank out the back.