Raptor 30/50 v2 assembly manual
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Ok, two main things to note here. 1) get the thrust bearings in right. 2)lube the rubber head dampeners. If not done, both can cause the blades to go out of track in flight.
Tip: Build the bearing assembly on the spindle shaft then use it to slide the whole thing in each blade grip. See the 2nd picture.
*Note: Now do not get confused, I have had two people email me thinking because I say to put the smaller thrust bearing race on first, they think this is opposite of what the instructions say to do. The smaller diameter thrust bearing race does go toward the blades just as the instructions say. When I describe the assembly of this, I have you build the bearing stack on the spindle shaft then pull the whole thing into the blade grip. When assembling the bearing stack on the spindle shaft, the smaller race will go on first.

First build both main blade grips (23). Start by installing the ball (31) and screw (3) onto each grip. Next is to build the bearing stack. As I mentioned above I install the bearings in the correct order on the spindle shaft then use the shaft to pull the bearings into the blade grip. So start by installing the washer (6) and bolt (7) on the spindle shaft (sometimes called the 'feathering' shaft). The smaller side of the washer will go against the head of the bolt. Now that you have a spindle shaft with one bolt/washer on only one end you can use this to build the bearing stack on.
Start by sliding a radial bearing (12) on the spindle shaft followed by a thrust washer (32). There are two different washers in this section and the thinner one is (32), the thicker one will go between the grip and the head. Okay, the next part is where a lot of people mess up on. Most of the time it is just because they assumed the two parts of the thrust bearing (11) were the same. The inside diameter is slightly different and you need to figure out which one is which. To do this, slide them both onto the spindle shaft (24) and rock them side to side. One will not move much and the other will. The one that rocks side to side the least is the one that needs to go on first (make sure you get the flat side toward the washer #32). Next slide on the caged ring of balls* (with the opening of the cage toward the center of the shaft) followed by the second thrust bearing race (larger hole) and make sure you have the grooved side facing the balls. *Note: add a little silicon grease to the caged balls. Now that all the bearings are in the right order, poke the spindle shaft into one of the blade grips (23) and pull it through until the bearings are seated all the way. Pull the spindle shaft out and install the last radial bearing (12) on the end of the grip as seen in the exploded view. Now do the same for the second blade grip.
Next we will work with the head block (30). Usually the pins (28) are already install. Check to make sure they will not pull out easily. If they do, roughen the end that goes into the head block and put CA on it. Make sure you do not bend these pins, if they are not straight then the mixing base will not slide up/down smoothly. Install the rubber dampeners (27) into the head block. The smaller diameter side will go toward the inside of the head. Make sure the outside corner of the dampeners are flush with the outside of the head block. Now, this next step is important, many people don't do it. Lube the inside of the head dampeners with 100% silicon grease. I use dielectric grease (aka tune up grease) that I get from the local auto parts store. Also lube the inside of the rotor hub pin (29) and install into the side of the head block and align the hole with the dampeners. Slide the spindle shaft (24) through one of the blade grips, then a spacer (15), oval link (25)*(see note below), then through the head dampener (27), then rotor pin (29), and out the other dampener (27). Smear some more grease on the shaft beside each dampener and slide the shaft back and forth to get good coverage. You should be able to turn the shaft easily with your hand. Next install the collar (15) on the other side of the shaft (24) followed by the oval links (25)*(see note below), then the blade grips (23). Slide the washer (6) onto the bolt (7) with the smaller side of the washer to the head of the bolt. Add a drop of blue loctite to the threads on the end of the bolt and install it in the end of the spindle shaft (24). Remove the bolt from the other side, add loctite and re-install. You will need to use two allen wrenchs to get them both tight. Note: as with all the previous occurances, when you have a bolt going into metal thread then use loctite (do not use loctite on bolts going into nyloc nuts). If any bolt is more important then another to loctite I would have to say it would be these head bolts. You don't need to go overboard, just the normal drop of blue loctite will do.
To finish the head assembly, just bolt the flybar unit from the previous page onto the top of the head block. Align the center hole in the flybar hub with the holes in the top of the head block. Install the bearings (10) followed by the sleeve (14) and bolt (2). Use blue loctite on the bolts. Twist the flybar so that the flybar control arm (19 on the previous page) that is closest to you is on your right side. Check out the 3rd picture for a visual of how this should be. Notice the directions of not only the control arm, but the blade grips, flybar paddle, and oval links.
To finish the assembly connect the double link (26) and oval links (25). The double links should already be made up, but if not or you need to make new ones, set them to 30mm.

*Note: Test fit the oval links to find the side that goes on the ball first. If you don't get the links on right, you will have to take the blades grips off to turn them around. And if you try to put them on backwards, you risk breaking the link. Also remember the short side goes on top.

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