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<<< 8-29-2006>>>


Raptor 90SE - supplemental assembly manual
Use the manual that came in the kit together with the added notes I have made in this supplemental manual. Before assembling the parts in each step you need to read the notes for that section.

NOTE: The manufacturer manual is sectioned so that a main assembly is shown first and the sub-assemblies for that section are next. This can be a little confusing since you work on the steps after then go back to the first section show to complete the assembly.

Tips Page - building tips
Note: if you do not have a way to measure metric lengths then refer to page 51 of the manufacturers manual. The bottom of this page has a scale you can use. I checked it and it is accurate for measuring bolts. For the longer links I did find that it is off by 0.5mm at the 100mm mark.
1-1 The parts are in bag A except for section 1-1-5. Notice that no bolts are installed in the bottom of the pinion bearing block, that will be installed later.
1-1-1 Use blue loctite on the two bolts (item 3) that go into the bearing block. Do not get any loctite in the bearing.
1-1-2 <Click here>
1-1-3&4 Insert the short spacers in the two plastic pitch guides (one of them has the built-in pitch guage).
1-1-5 <Click here>
1-1 <Click here>
1-2 Use Bag B
1-2-1 Use blue loctite, do not get any in the bearing
1-2-2 The carbon frames and metal frame stiffeners are individually wrapped. They are not in Bag B. Mount the metal frame stiffeners to the carbon frames. There are four M3x12 bolts used on each side. These do not use the washers as most of the other bolts on the frames do. The bolts are in the bag filled with many bolts that was in Bag B. The nuts are in the bag with the frame spacers. The metal frame stiffeners are opposite designs. See the picture for the position of the four bolts.
1-2-3 Same as above.
1-2-4 Install the gears on the shaft. Make sure the set screws go in all the way against the pins. Install two bearings on the tail shaft front gear. Make sure the bearing closest to the teeth is flush against the small step otherwise the gear mesh will be too tight. The back bearing will be flush with the back of the gear. Next install the five frame spacers. Yes there are five, looking at the picture in the manufacturers manual it is difficult to see the one at the bottom-back.
1-2-5 Bag B
1-2-6 Tank is seperately packed in Box 2. Personally I have not had good experience with the clunk line so I replaced mine with medium size Prather fuel tubing. Normally I would use the small size on the R30/50 but on this tank the line is long enough that the weight of the clunk easily pulls the line to the top and bottom. The larger line will be less restrictive to fuel flow as well as last a lot longer if you pressurize your tank by the muffler (as opposed to a pump setup).
1-2 When installing the back-bottom plastic section (that the tank fits between) you will need to get two frame spacers and put them as shown in this picture. And also note that the four washers used are different then the others. When installing the bottom bearing bracket note that the front bolt is longer. It uses the M3x16mm and it does need a washer. Normally the bolts on the metal frame spacer do not need washers but this one as well as the ones that go into the engine mount do because they slide for adjustment purposes. Also at this stage I did not install the tank because the bottom nozzle on the tank sticks below the feet of the frameset. So to keep from damaging it I will install the tank later. Also I found I was missing one bolt while putting the frame plates together. Later in step 1-5 I found out why. On the right lower frame the bolt hole that goes to the back-bottom of the fan shroud should be left empty (see the picture). In step 1-5 you will attach the header tank here.
1-3 no special notes
1-4 no special notes
1-5-1 no special notes
1-5-2 no special notes
1-5-3 no special notes
1-5-4 Assemble one side first. Install the long 25mm bolt in each side first before bolting the other side to the assembly.
1-5 Install the header tank in the empty hole on the right bottom-lower frame that was left over from step 1-2. This hole should go into the back-bottom of the fan shroud. Next install the carbon pitch arm. Here I found that you have to take out two of the bolts in the pitch arm assembly so you can spread the back of the pitch arm out enough to go over the right side of the elevator control lever. After you get the right side of the pitch arm on the elevator control lever then do the same for the left side. Now put the two bolts back in the pitch arm. Put the e-clip on the left side then install the control arm on the right side. The text in the manual is incorrect. I indicates this arm is item 15 but according to the exploded view this should have said item 14. TIP: I have been told that green loctite needs to be place in the control arm to prevent it from developing slop. Apparently the holes for the pin eventually elongate without the use of the green loctite. I applied the loctite inside the arm to help prevent getting it in the bearing on the end of the pitch arm. After you get the pin in get the small 3mm set screw from the bag that had the e-clip in it. Install this set srew in the end of the right side of the elevator control lever. Use blue loctite on this set screw. NOTE: When you install the bolts in the pivot point of the pitch arm if you have resistance in it make sure the bolts in the top starter shaft bearing block are tight. Early when this was installed it was mentioned that the bolts would need to be loosened to adjust the gear mesh so if you left them a little loost then the head of the bolts will rub on the inside of the pitch arm. The fit is very close so if you do have a problem with the arm rubbing on the bolts even when they are tight then you need to install a washer behind the bearing as shown in this picture. If the pitch arm just rubs on one side then put the washer just on that side. There is a note in the manufacturers manual on step 1-5 indicating that some washers should be added to prevent the right aileron lever and the metal elevator control arm from rubbing. I did not see any problem, maybe this note is for the version that uses the plastic arm.
1-6-1 Make sure the pins will easily slide through the washout links. If not the manufactures manual suggest using some pliers to squeeze the washout link with the pin in it to open up the hole a little. I use a drill bit that is smaller then the hole and with the drill at a low speed I run the bit in a circle on the inside of the hole once then test fit the pin. It should be able to easily slide through both holes of the washout link. If you have a tight fit then the pin could eventually work its way out. And of course you do not want to get the hole too loose as this would add slop in the control system. In my kit the pins fit great so I did not have to do anything but install them. Also make sure the washout links fit good on the control levers. If the fit is tight then use a file on the inside section of the washout link that contacts the control lever.
1-6 When installing the main shaft the main shaft does have a direction. The holes at the end are different lengths from the end. One is 13.5mm from the center of the hole to the end of the main shaft and the other is 12mm. Not a lot of difference but it does matter which way you insert the main shaft. The side that has the hole 13.5mm from the end will go to the bottom. Also note that the middle hole is 99mm from the bottom. If you have trouble getting the main shaft to go through the main gear assembly then it could be because the pinion gear is too far back. Loosen the eight bolts going into the starter shaft bearing block and then slide it forward. After you get the bolts in the lock ring then check if there is up/down play in the main shaft. If there is then loosen the four bolts going into the lower main shaft bearing block and slide the block upward until it stops and tighten the bolts. The manual does mention this but I thought is was worth re-mentioning since I get a lot of emails asking why they have up/down play in the main shaft.
2-1 Bag F in Box 2
2-1-1 Before you slide the second flybar control arm on make sure you put the see-saw hub in the top of the head first.
2-1-2 It says to slide the completed main grips onto the spindle shaft but that has not been built yet. It is in section 2-1-3. The manual should have these two sections swapped.
2-1-3 no special notes
2-1 no special notes
3-1 Bag G Box 2
3-1-1 When installing the gear on the tail shaft use the pin that does not have grooves on the ends. There are three pins in the parts bag so the one you need is not like the other two. Also you need to tighten the three bolts to hold the tail case together so you will know if the gear mesh is fine. Later when you install the tail case on the tail boom you will need to loosen the front two bolts.
3-1-2 The metal pitch fork totally depends on loctite to hold it in place. When you install the pitch fork put blue loctite on the threads of the brass slider. Do not get an excessive amount as some may get into the bearing. Do not tighten the pitch arm against the bearing of the pitch control slider, just get the metal pitch fork up against it so the pitch control slider does not have any free play. Hold the metal pitch fork there until the loctite dries.
3-1-3 no special notes
3-1 Install the tail shaft in the tail boom before you put the tail case on. The tail shaft bearings have a tight fit and while pushing the shaft in position the glue joint holding the bearing to the shaft could break loose. If it does you will need to push the shaft out the other side. When you install the tail boom into the tail case make sure you get the printed Raptor emblem upright. Also when you put the vertical fin on, the spacer that is put between the vertical fin and the tail case is made of plastic. This maybe confusing since the parts listing in the manufacturers manual labels this a 'machined washer'. Also when mounting the carbon vertical fin I used two of the BK0087 metal washers under the nyloc nuts. I did this to prevent the nuts from damaging the carbon fiber. And before you put the tail rod guides on you need to enlarge the rod hole from 2mm to 2.3mm. Tip: before you install the horizontal fin clamp you need to file away the sharp edges left over from manufacturing. The sharp edges would cut into the carbon fiber tail boom.
4-1 no special notes
4-2 If you are installing a YS engine then you need to either get the fan made for it, part # PV) or use a tap to change the threads in the stock fan. The tap you need is 8mm x 1mm
4-3 Install each strut first but keep the bolts loose. Then slide the skids in place.
4-4-1 First bolt both of the support rod ends to the back of the frame set. Do not get the bolts tight, just enough that you can still change the angle of the ends. Use some sand paper to roughen up the ends of the support rods. This is to give a good surface area for the glue to stick to. Next place some epoxy on one end of a support rod and a little on the inside of the end bolted to the back of the frame set. Now push the rod all the way in. Next glue the end on the back of the support rod. Before the glue dries you need to bolt this to the horizontal fin clamp. This will ensure the two ends are angled correctly. Do the same for the other side.

7.75mm 0.304" shaft

Page 24 - servo installation
Page 25 - final notes

tips from IRCHA:
GET WHITE . GEAR ON R 90
Mention which colar to put on each side of pitch arm
Put fuel tubing on back of plastrc frame to protect tanks when using a pressure
Put heat shrink on pins
Cut out fan shroud so bell will clear
Heat tail bearings to make them go in easier
Jerry Sudimack
Tip: if you get metal bell-hiller arms then make sure you use button head bolts
Put on elevator arm instead of green loctite