Raptor 60v1 Construction

3-22-2006 Note: This page was made back when the R60v1 had just been put on the market. I might have a R90 in the next month and will do a build page on it.

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If you're in a hurry to get the helicopter ready for the weekend, then start off by jumping to page 7 and get the liner glued into the clutch. Get the clutch out of bag J and put two layers of electrical tape around it, then push it in the bell. This will press in on the liner equally all the way around. You will need the clutch bell to complete section 1-1. You will need to let the glue set up, so if you need more time, skip to section 1-2 and start with the lower frame.

pg 7 1-1-2 epoxy clutch liner, use couple layers of tape on clutch to press liner in evenly

Here's what the clutch looks like:

The manual assumes that the person assembling a 60 size helicopter has some building experience like knowing to use blue loctite (242) on bolts going into metal. As well as things like knowing the links are designed to go on one direction. This includes the 'A' arms going to the swashplate. Here is a quote from the Ace message board: "The link must go on one way and one way only!! If you look at the side of the A arm, you'll see one side is higher than the other side. That's the larger side. That's the side that must go on the ball. You can also look for the flat round molding mark on the larger side of the link. Also you'll see the smaller side is more rounded than the larger side..." "You can also see the mold marks on the double ball links as well. Again the mold marks go towards the ball. On the regular links it's simple, TTiger faces out."

pg 7 1-1-2WARNING! Before you assemble the clutch shaft, look closely at the starter coupler. Make sure it is hexagonal and not a circle like mine. I had the heli all together and was ready to go test fly it when I discovered this, I had to take off the muffler and drop the engine, then take off the pitch arm to get to the start coupler set screws. I used a start coupler out of a Raptor 30 kit. It appears to be the same part.





pg 8 1-2 The ARF version has a frame spacer above the fuel tank and the manual indicates a frame spacer should be here, but I did not have an extra frame space, however after using all the parts in that parts bag, I was left with two nyloc nuts, so I figure that's what they substituted in place of the frame spacer.





pg 9 1-2-2 The gear mesh has some resistance, but will free up after the first tank.

pg 9 1-2-4 The clunk line seems like the same stuff that came with the 30. If you use it, be sure and check it regularly and don't expect it to last more then a couple of gallons, it will probably get gummy before that. The kit does come with a nice aluminum (2) fuel nipple. When installing this, if you spray acohol on the (3) fuel tank stopper, then (2) will slip in easily.

pg 10 1-1 I had the two Frame Spacer S (4)BK0392 missing in my kit. So I looked through some of my spare parts and found a brass spacer that I think was from an old Concept 30 I used to have. I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut the two spacers to the right size. I also had to drill out the threads. It took a little effort, but I came out perfect.

pg 14 1-5-4 The (11) pitch arm had some extra plastic from the mold process that caused mine to rub against the pitch angle marks on (11)pg6. Check yours and file it down if needed.

pg 14 1-5-5 Make sure the elevator control arms (2) go on the right direction. Be very careful, a few have reported breaking this part during installation. One technique I use to get the right side is to push the link up against the ball and see how far it goes on, then turn it around and again see how far. The side that goes on deeper is the correct direction. Also read the note from ACE at the top of this page about proper link orientation.

pg 15 1-6 The (7) wash out assembly did not slide easily on the main shaft. I used 1500 grit sandpaper coated with oil to smooth the shaft. It only took a little bit to free it up. Also in this section, they don't indicate which way to insert the main shaft. The main shaft has three holes, the one in the middle is not in the center. Insert the main shaft so that the short side (distance between middle hole to the one toward the end) goes down. Also the manual is not clear as to where the (6) lock ring goes. It needs to be located just under the top bearing block and the bolts (2) will go into the middle two holes drilled into the main shaft. Also apply Tri-Flow to the needle bearings of the autorotation hub (9) before installing on the main shaft.

pg 16 1-6-1 They did not supply ball link(7) and screws(1) in my box.
pg 16 1-6 Make sure the wash out link (6) go on the right direction. Be very careful, a few have reported breaking this part during installation. One technique I use to get the right side is to push the link up against the ball and see how far it goes on, then turn it around and again see how far. The side that goes on deeper is the correct direction. Also read the note from ACE at the top of this page about proper link orientation.


pg 18 2-1 Ace has an addendum<<<update, this link does not work anymore and I could not find the addendum, this was for the R60v1 from many years ago))) to this section.
1. The distance for the two pushrods should be 43mm instead of 42mm.
2. There are four M4 x 3mm set screws furnished instead of two. (No. 9 on the parts list). The paddles should be locked on both sides with set screws.
3. Following are two typos in the assembly text.
On the fourth line from the end, No. 35 Collars should read No. 15 Collars.
On the last line, No. 34 Bushings should read No. 14.
pg 18 2-1 Make sure the flybar control rods (28) go on the right direction. Be very careful, a few have reported breaking this part during installation. One technique I use to get the right side is to push the link up against the ball and see how far it goes on, then turn it around and again see how far. The side that goes on deeper is the correct direction. Also read the note from ACE at the top of this page about proper link orientation.
pg 20 3-1 Ace has an addendum<<<update, this link does not work anymore and I could not find the addendum, this was for the R60v1 from many years ago))) to this section.
The spacing dimensions for the Rod Guides is incorrect. Change the two 265mm distances to 255mm and change the 130mm distance to 145mm.
pg 20 3-1 apply a thin layer of blue loctite over tail drive shaft in the area you want to put the bearing, then slide the bearing over it and let it dry. Later use a pvc pipe to push the bearing into the tailboom.


pg 21 3-1-1 The bearings (1) are a very tight fit on (27) gear. I don't have any secret way to make it easier, just be careful not to put too much side load on the bearing. If you have to bang on it, do it on the inner race instead of the outside race.
pg 21 3-1-1 My kit came with a suppliment and an extra two washers. One washer is used to make the (24) control lever line up better with the (2) ball and the other is used to get the right gear mesh.
pg 21 3-1-1 The tail slider is very tight, had to loosen up with a grinding stone on the dremel. Smoothed the inside of the brass slider so it had very little resistance on the tail drive shaft.
pg
Kewel logo painted or etched on, it's not a sticker.
now I need to install the servos


Empty parts bags =


Here you can see the hole I drilled to allow access to the set screws of the starter coupler.

Ron Lund has some info on the Raptor 60 and a kewel picture of Nathan hovering inverted in front of Ron's sign.