Spektrum DX8 Review/Tipslast updated 10-20-2010 |
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Timer
- I switched to all electric helicopters in September 2009. With the
DX7 and most radios you start the timer just before you lift off.
Sounds simple, but in reality you sometimes forget to start the timer.
With electric helis you depend on the timer so you can follow the 80%
rule. Beginning with version 1.01 you can set the timer to work off of
the throttle output. The problem with working off of the throttle stick
is that the timer will stop when doing inverted climbouts and it will
not stop when doing autorotations. With throttle output set for the
timer, this makes the whole timer issue effortless. Now I do not start
the timer, it takes care of itself. All I do is just go fly and the
timer will let me know when it is time to stop. So easy!!! The timer
will make one beep near the end of flight to let you know you
have one minute left. Then it will beep one per second for the last ten
seconds. Then the timer will start counting up and beep once per
minute. BTW: If you have trouble hearing the sound from the radio, just
set the timer to vibrate instead (or do both). NOTE: The position value
for the throttle output is based on the throttle output. So what does
that mean, well it means that when you set the value do not expect 0%
to be stick low and 100% to be stick high. It could very well be
reverse of that depending on how you have the throttle channel set. The
easy way to set this value is to start off at 50% and move the throttle
stick up until you hear the beep that the timer makes. Now move the
value to 35% and then move the stick until you hear the beep. Take note
if the stick was below the middle or above. If above then you know you
need to move toward 100%. If below then keep lowering the value until
you hear the beep just as the stick is moved from the bottom.
Servo
Setup function - The first time I got to look through the menu this
function was one of the first things I noticed and liked about the DX8.
I guess it means a lot to me because I have setup so many helis. A
common setup with other radios goes like this: Elevator servo - go to
the Reverse function, set the direction, go to the sub-trim function,
install the servo arm and adjust the value to set the 90 degree angle,
go to the travel adjust, set the end points, go to next servo and
repeat. So you end up hopping from one function to another all
throughout the setup. With the DX8, most things you need are in this
one screen. A picture of this is shown on the right. You have your
monitor, travel, sub-trim, and reverse all in one screen. Now instead
of working on one servo and hopping in and out of functions to get
everything done, now you set the servo in the middle selection then
scroll between the travel, sub-trim, and reverse functions at the top.
The value is on the bottom. It is great having the monitor display in
this all in one screen. A common task I would do is on a new setup of a
120 swash, I would lift into a hover and if the trim was off I would
land, go to the heli and stop the blades, put my thumb on the servo
that needs to be trimmed, go to the sub-trim function and guess a
direction to adjust the servo and feel if that went the correct way.
Now with the DX8, I just land and move the cyclic stick in the
direction needed and watch the monitor. This will show me which way the
servo needs to go. I then select sub-trim and adjust the value so that
it moves the indicator on the monitor bar in the correct direction.
BTW: With version 1.03, when adjusting the Travel, both values will
adjust at the same time if the stick is in the center. However if you
bump the stick off center then back, that one side will be selected and
remain selected even though the stick is back in the center.
Gyro
Function - In the DX7 you could set two values then you could assign
these to flight modes. In the DX8 you can set a different value for
each flight mode. I use it for bank switching my VBar. It lets me set
four modes. One for each flgiht mode, Norm, FM1, FM2, and Hold. This is
great because I set the Hold bank in the Vbar for decreased cyclic
agility. A common problem with autoing a flybarless system is the
cyclic is touchy at the end of the auto compared to what you are use to
with a flybar. As the head speed decreases with a flybar head, the
controls get soft so you get use to adding a lot of cyclic at the end
of the auto. But a flybarless unit does not care what the headspeed is,
it will still maintain the roll rate you set it up to.
Color
code the Telemetry plugs - Unfortunately I know from experience what
happens when you get the wrong plug in the RPM connector. The Data,
RPM, and Volts/Temp plugs are all three JST-ZH (mini JST) (Japanese Solderless
Terminals) connectors. I had all the wires tucked out of sight in the
framset. The wiring job looked nice. But I was not satisfied with the
Telemetry module location. I unstuck it from the frame and tried some
other places. I ended up putting it back where it was. I reconnect the
mini-JST plugs but unknowingly I ended up with the flight pack plug in
the RPM connector of the TM1000. The next time I connected the Flight
Pack, I heard multibple pops. The Cypress programmable IC inside the
TM1000 was ruined. That chip was not expecting to be hit with 40 volts.
So my tip here is to color code the connectors. I used a red and green
marker on the new TM1000 I bought.
Binding
- With the Telemetry module attached you put it and the receivers in
Bind mode by holding in a small button on the side of the Telemetry
module. The TM1000 comes with a small plastic stick that fits tight in
the binding hole. It is suppose to be tight enough you can leave it in
place without holding in. One of mine will do that, but the other you
have to hold it yourself while at the same time you plug the battery
in. It can be done but it really needs two people.